In 1915, Elizabeth Arden founded one of the first institutes in New York that understood skincare as a serious, ritualized science for women—long before "skincare" became a research field in dermatology. These pioneers professionalized what was previously considered a luxury: systematic care, formulated from active substances with measurable effects. Today, high achievers face the same, yet better-informed question: Which active ingredients actually deliver results—and which ones merely provide shine on the label?

Skin aging occurs due to intrinsic processes such as declining collagen production and extrinsic factors like UV radiation. This becomes visible as moisture loss, reduced elasticity, and wrinkle formation. Therefore, crucial are active ingredients that bind water, strengthen the extracellular matrixframework of collagen/elastin that provides strength/elasticity, and optimize cell turnoverrate at which new skin cells reach the surface. Hyaluronic acid acts as a humectantmoisture binder that retains water in the stratum corneum, peptides are short chains of amino acids that can stimulate the skin matrix, and AHA/BHA exfoliants loosen the cementing substances between dead cells, promoting a smoother surface and more uniform light reflection. Algae extracts provide a bioactive cocktail profile of antioxidants and sugar structures with potentially protective and moisturizing effects. At the same time, it is essential to note that preservatives and intense peels require dosage control—otherwise, benefits can turn into irritation. Thus, for performance-oriented routines, the combination counts: hydrate, strengthen structure, renew—safely.

Stabilizing the barrier layer with humectants reduces transepidermal water loss and maintains plump, resilient skin—a visible marker of vitality. Clinical data on hyaluronic acid skin boosters show improved skin viscoelasticity, hydration, and reduced surface roughness over several months, which visually diminishes fine lines ^[1]. Peptide formulations can increase elasticity in areas with fine wrinkles and reduce wrinkle parameters—without relevant side effects in the studied application ^[2]. Chemical exfoliation with AHA/BHA, when correctly applied, accelerates desquamation, smooths photodamage traces, and can enhance the efficacy of other active ingredients ^[3]. At the same time, there are clear no-gos: uncontrolled AHA application temporarily increases UV sensitivity—the minimal erythemal dose decreases, and sunburn cells increase ^[4]. Hydroquinone above 4% and used over months to years increases the risk of exogenous ochronosis with difficult-to-treat pigmentation changes ^[5]. Moreover, high concentrations of certain preservatives like phenoxyethanol can promote irritation, also depending on the formulation ^[6][7].

A clinical investigation of a hyaluronic acid skin booster with intradermal application documented consistent improvements in hydration, viscoelasticity, flexibility, and smoothness over six months, accompanied by high patient satisfaction and only mild, short-term side effects. For practice, this means: Hyaluronic acid—whether injectable or topically in well-formulated creams—directly addresses water binding and surface smoothing, central levers against fine lines ^[1]. Additionally, a prospective study on a multi-peptide serum in the periorbital area showed that within four weeks, the number, depth, and volume of "crow's feet" significantly decreased while hydration, elasticity, and firmness increased; no undesirable effects occurred. This supports the relevance of peptide-based, multitargeted approaches to strengthen the extracellular matrix for visible anti-aging effects ^[2]. On the renewal side, a review on superficial chemical peels shows that AHA/BHA, when applied under controlled conditions, can address a wide range of photodamage and dyschromias while refining skin texture—provided the protocol, frequency, and aftercare are correct ^[3]. At the same time, a randomized investigation with 10% glycolic acid warns that AHA temporarily increases UV sensitivity, making consistent photoprotection essential ^[4]. For safety assessments, it is also relevant that preserving ingredients, at practice-typical concentrations, mostly caused only mild erythema, although irritation strength varies depending on type and formulation—a note to choose deliberately with sensitive skin ^[6][7].

- Choose a day cream with hyaluronic acid (combining low and high molecular weights) to ensure water binding in upper and middle skin layers; expect smoother surface texture and plumper skin appearance with consistent use ^[1].
- Test a peptide serum (e.g., multi-peptide formulas) in the evening in the eye or cheek area to support elasticity and firmness; first visible effects are realistic within 4 weeks ^[2].
- Use AHA/BHA exfoliants 1–3 times a week for gentle cell turnover; reduce frequency in case of sensitivity and always couple with daily sun protection ^[3][4].
- Consider creams with algae extracts (e.g., brown/green macroalgae) as antioxidant and moisture boosters, especially in urban environments with oxidative stress ^[8].
- Avoid long-term, high-concentration hydroquinone applications without medical supervision; if necessary, only temporarily and medically monitored ^[5].
- Check the INCI list for phenoxyethanol: high concentrations and combinations with certain preservatives can increase irritation—especially with sensitive skin ^[6][7].

The next wave of convincing anti-aging creams will more precisely control active ingredient synergies: hydration through hyaluronic acid, matrix support via peptides, finely dosed exfoliation—with smart photoprotection. Research on marine bioactives and peptide-based multitarget formulas is likely to further establish standardized, measurable outcome parameters and better reflect individual tolerances.